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Science

Introduction

PAN1 with Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40 contains a 1% concentration of panthenol, a provitamin of vitamin B5. Its primary function is to retain water in the skin through enhancing skin barrier reparation to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Mechanism

When panthenol is applied topically, it is converted to pantothenic acid, a component of coenzyme A and holo-fatty acid synthase that is essential to normal epithelial function. Studies have shown that panthenol-based formulations increase skin moisture and have a significant effect on skin barrier function by decreasing TEWL. 1-4

Acetyl tetrapeptide-40 is added in the product to reduce the appearance of skin redness as well as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. 37-amino acid peptide (LL-37) induced interleukins (IL-6 & IL-8) are released by the immune system in response to potentially harmful agents and conditions, causing inflammation. A study has shown that acetyl tetrapeptide-40 lowers the release of ILs mediated by LL-37 and subsequently decreases facial redness. 5

Formulator’s Notes

A high water-oil ratio formulation that moisturizes the skin without leaving a greasy mess. The formulation is further stabilized by triglyceride oil, with its high oxidative stability. The product has strong emollient properties, smoothening the skin and leaves behind a satiny texture.

1. Tezel, A. and Fredrickson, G., 2008. The science of hyaluronic acid dermal fillers. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 10(1), pp.35-42. 
2. Camargo, F. B., Gaspar, L. R. and Campos, P. M. B. G. M., 2011. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 62(4), pp. 361-369.
3. Stettler, H. et al., 2017. A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: Results from two randomized controlled studies assessing its skin moisturization and barrier restoration potential, and the effect on skin microflora. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 28(2), pp. 173-180.
4. W. Gehring and M. Gloor, Effect of topically applied dexpanthenol on epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum hydration, Arzneimittelf, 50, 659–663 (2002). 
5. Synergie skin., 2018. Clinical data – Acetyl Tetrapeptide -40.