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Science

Introduction

 

HRP5 with Hyaluronic Acid contains a high concentration of rice peptide (5%), a collagenase inhibitor obtained from rice. Peptides are short amino acid chains.

 

Its primary function is to inhibit collagen degradation, preventing the loss of collagen from sun exposure. Having high collagen levels in the skin is one of the most fundamental ways to increase skin elasticity and smoothness in order to prevent premature aging.

 

Mechanism

 

Human skin is constantly exposed to extrinsic (e.g., environmental pollution and photoaging), as well as intrinsic or natural (e.g.chronological aging) factors, that are associated with skin aging.

 

Subsequently, it affects the biosynthesis of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, as well as a simultaneous overproduction of several aging-related enzymes (e.g. elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase, and hyaluronidase) that are implicated in the degradation of the protein matrix of the skin.

 

This causes blemishes, rough texture, wrinkles,hyperpigmentation, and loss in skin elasticity. Studies have shown that rice peptide exhibits high inhibitory activity towards collagen degrading enzymes, indicating its effectiveness of increasing skin elasticity and smoothness.1-3

 

Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is added to keep the skin smooth and supple. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acids (<5kDa) incorporated into the formula are able to penetrate further into the epidermis and reach the subcutaneous layers, hydrating the skin as well as stimulating the production of collagen. 4-5

 

Formulator’s Notes

The use of crosspolymer can create a rich texture, yet it forms an undesirable film on the skin that can hinder the absorption of skincare products applied subsequently. To solve this issue, a lower molecular weight hyaluronic acid is included instead to deliver moisture into different layers of the skin while retaining a smooth and rich texture similar to the addition of crosspolymer. The addition of lavender and witch hazel extracts helps soothe and calm the skin after facial cleansing.

1. Aguilar-Toalá JE, Hernández-Mendoza A, González-Córdova AF, Vallejo-Cordoba B, Liceaga AM (2019) Potential role of natural bioactive peptides for development of cosmeceutical skin products. Peptides 122:170170.
2. Limbert G, Masen MA, Pond D, Graham HK, Sherratt MJ, Jobanputra R, McBride A (2019) Biotribology of the ageing skin—Why we should care. Biotribology 17:75–90
3. Hong GP, Min SG, Jo YJ (2019) Anti-oxidative and anti-aging activities of porcine by-product collagen hydrolysates produced by commercial proteases: efect of hydrolysis and ultrafltration. Molecules 24(6):1104.
4. Essendoubi, M., Gobinet, C., Reynaud, R., Angiboust, J., Manfait, M. and Piot, O., 2015. Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy. Skin Research and Technology, 22(1), pp.55-62.2. 2.
5. Brown, T. J., Alcorn, D. and Fraser, J. R. E., 1999. Absorption of hyaluronan applied to the surface of intact skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 113(5), pp. 740-746.