Science Behind Intensive Hydrating Restorative Mask

Introduction 

Intensive Hydrating Restorative Mask is formulated with a blend of ingredients, including Dragon’s Blood resin extract (Croton Lechleri Resin Extract) and other active components. With a novel nanosized encapsulation technology, both water-soluble (hydrophilic) and oil-soluble (lipophilic) ingredients can be delivered to the skin simultaneously, therefore maximizing the delivery of active ingredients.  

Mechanism 

It is a common question whether the skin can effectively absorb skincare products. When a skincare product fails to achieve percutaneous delivery, the active ingredients cannot be absorbed into the skin and are thus ineffective. Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs), a type of advanced drug delivery system originating from pharmaceuticals, have gained attention in the cosmetic industry for their potential benefits in enhancing the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients used in cosmetic formulations[1-3].  

NLCs are composed of lipid outer matrix (a mix of solid and liquid lipids), surfactant monolayer, and active ingredient core4. The lipid outer layer interacts with the lipids and proteins present in the skin, facilitating penetration through the lipid-rich layers of the stratum corneum. Single-layered NLCs, which consist of three basic components, are ideal for delivering single lipophilic active ingredients. However, without appropriate modifications, single-layered NLCs have limited capacity to encapsulate hydrophilic actives, making them less versatile for formulations requiring a balance of actives with different hydrophobic/lipophilic properties[2]. 

This problem can be solved by using amphiphilic NLCs, which contain both hydrophilic and lipophilic components within a single nanostructured lipid carrier. This is achieved by introducing an extra surfactant layer of different solubility to the carrier, allowing the encapsulation of both hydrophilic and lipophilic actives at the same time. Not only does it allow flexibility in formulation development, but it also provide stability to both actives by keeping them in separated compartments, ensuring their efficacy over time. 

In order to maximise the simultaneous delivery of Dragon’s Blood resin extract (hydrophilic) and multiple oil extracts (lipophilic) to the skin, this product utilizes the amphiphilic NLC encapsulation technology with particle size in less than 300 nm. This increases the contactable surface area between lipid carrier and the skin, promoting absorption and penetration of active ingredients and thus restoring the skin’s barrier function[4]. 

The mask is made of microfiber materials, which can fit seamlessly to the contours of the face. In addition, algae extract incorporated acts as an absorbent element to retain moisture, forming a protective layer that preserves heat. This optimizes skin contact, creating a barrier that traps body heat for warmth,  and then facilitating a concentrated delivery of active ingredients to deeper layers of the skin[5-6]. 

Dragon’s Blood, the core active ingredient, is a reddish resin extracted from Croton lechleri tree. Its healing and antioxidizing properties stem from various bioactive ingredients. For instance, polyphenols and proanthocyanidins act as potent antioxidants and healing agents.  They combat free radicals that contribute to skin aging and at the same time stimulate wound contraction. The healing properties are further associated by taspine and dimethylcedrusin, which are the other two most active components present in the extract. In other words, Dragon’s Blood is particularly effective in soothing and preventing the oxidation of superficial wounds, thereby reducing the chance of scarring[7-8].  

Apart from Dragon’s Blood, additional ingredients, including Saccharide Isomerate[9-10], Kalanchoe Spathulata Extract[11], Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid[12], Algae Extract[13], Tripeptide-10 Citrulline[14], and Niacinamide[15-16], have been included in the product to reinforce the skin barrier and deliver long-term moisturizing effects. These components also aid in soothing and repairing damaged skin while enhancing skin elasticity. 

Reference 

1. Fitriani, E.W., Avanti, C., Rosana, Y. and Surini, S., 2024. Nanostructured lipid carriers: A prospective dermal drug delivery system for natural active ingredients. Pharmacia, 71, pp.1-15. 
   
   
2. Mahant, S., Rao, R. and Nanda, S., 2018. Nanostructured lipid carriers: revolutionizing skin care and topical therapeutics. In Design of nanostructures for versatile therapeutic applications (pp. 97-136). William Andrew Publishing. 
   
   
3. Pardeike, J., Hommoss, A. and Müller, R.H., 2009. Lipid nanoparticles (SLN, NLC) in cosmetic and pharmaceutical dermal products. International journal of pharmaceutics, 366(1-2), pp.170-184. 
   
   
4. Chauhan, I., Yasir, M., Verma, M. and Singh, A.P., 2020. Nanostructured lipid carriers: A groundbreaking approach for transdermal drug delivery. Advanced pharmaceutical bulletin, 10(2), p.150. 
   
   
5. Akomeah, F., Nazir, T., Martin, G.P. and Brown, M.B., 2004. Effect of heat on the percutaneous absorption and skin retention of three model penetrants. European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 21(2-3), pp.337-345. 
   
   
6. Nafisi, S. and Maibach, H.I., 2018. Skin penetration of nanoparticles. In Emerging nanotechnologies in immunology (pp. 47-88). Elsevier. 
   
   
7. Peres, I.S., Conceição, K.A., Silva, L.A., Khouri, N.G., Yoshida, C.M., Concha, V.O., Lucarini, M., Durazzo, A., Santini, A., Souto, E.B. and Severino, P., 2023. Dragon’s Blood: antioxidant properties for nutraceuticals and pharmaceuticals. Rendiconti Lincei. Scienze Fisiche e Naturali, 34(1), pp.131-142.  
   
   
8. Pona, A., Cline, A., Kolli, S.S., Taylor, S.L. and Feldman, S.R., 2019. Review of future insights of Dragon's Blood in dermatology. Dermatologic Therapy, 32(2), p.e12786. 
   
   
9. Hartini, H., Vlorensia, H.A., Martinus, A.R. and Ikhtiari, R., 2020. The effect of a moisturizing cream containing saccharide isomerate and ceramide on reducing transepidermal water loss in eczema. In Proceedings of the International Conference on Health Informatics and Medical Application Technology (ICHIMAT 2019) (pp. 411-417). SCITEPRESS‐Science and Technology Publications, Lda. 
   
   
10. Vlorensia, H.H., Abdullah, H., Martinus, A.R. and Ikhtiari, R., 2020. The Effect of a Moisturizing Cream with Saccharide Isomerate and Ceramide on Increasing Skin Hydration. 
    
    
11. Stefanowicz-Hajduk, J., Hering, A., Kowalczyk, M., Hałasa, R., Gucwa, M. and Ochocka, J.R., 2023. Kalanchoe sp. Extracts—Phytochemistry, Cytotoxic, and Antimicrobial Activities. Plants, 12(12), p.2268. 
    
    
12. Essendoubi, M., Gobinet, C., Reynaud, R., Angiboust, J., Manfait, M. and Piot, O., 2015. Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy. Skin Research and Technology, 22(1), pp.55-62.2. 2. 
    
    
13. Michalak, I., Dmytryk, A. and Chojnacka, K., 2020. Algae cosmetics. Encyclopedia of marine biotechnology, 1, pp.65-85. 
    
    
14. Schagen, S.K., 2017. Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics, 4(2), p.16. 
    
    
15. Mohammed, D., Crowther, J.M., Matts, P.J., Hadgraft, J. and Lane, M.E., 2013. Influence of niacinamide containing formulations on the molecular and biophysical properties of the stratum corneum. International journal of pharmaceutics, 441(1-2), pp.192-201. 
    
    
16. Boo, Y.C., 2021. Mechanistic basis and clinical evidence for the applications of nicotinamide (niacinamide) to control skin aging and pigmentation. Antioxidants, 10(8), p.1315.